Companion Planting Chart: 48 Vegetables, Herbs & Flowers (Free & Printable)
Every plant in this chart is listed with the plants it grows well beside, the plants to keep it away from, and the spacing, sun and water figures you need to act on any of it. That comes to 174 companion pairings and 64 pairings to avoid across 28 vegetables, 12 herbs, 5 flowers and 3 fruiting crops.
The whole chart is on this page as plain text and plain tables. There is nothing to download, no email to hand over, and nothing to unlock. Print it straight from your browser and the navigation, footer and feedback button drop away so you get the tables on their own.
How to Read This Chart
Most companion planting charts give you two columns, friends and enemies, and stop there. The problem with stopping there is that the companion column is the least binding piece of information on the page. If you put a full-sun crop in the shade, or crowd a plant that needs two feet into six inches, no amount of good neighbouring will save it. So this chart carries the constraints alongside the relationships, and they are meant to be read in a specific order.
Read sun and water first. These decide which plants can share a bed at all. A full-sun, low-water herb and a high-water leafy green will both struggle in the same bed no matter what the companion column says, because you can only water the bed one way. Sorting your plants into groups by sun and water is the single highest-value thing you can do with this table, and it is the step most plans skip.
Read spacing second. Each row gives three numbers: how far apart to set plants within a row, how far apart to set the rows, and how many plants fit in a square foot if you garden in square-foot blocks. Spacing is what turns a companion pairing from an idea into a layout. Two plants are only companions if there is physically room for both, and the most common way a companion pairing fails in practice is that the larger plant simply grew over the smaller one.
Read the relationship columns third. The “grows well with” column is a list of sensible defaults for when you have a free choice about what goes beside what. The “keep apart from” column is the more useful of the two, because avoiding a known bad pairing costs you nothing and the penalties are real: competition, shared disease, or one crop pushing the other to bolt.
Check the zone range last. Two plants can be perfect companions on paper and never actually share your bed, because in a short season one finishes before the other goes out. The zone column tells you whether a plant suits your climate at all; the overlap of their seasons tells you whether the pairing is available to you this year.
One note on the relationship columns, explained in full further down: pairings here are mutual. If you find tomato in the pepper row, you will find pepper in the tomato row.
The Complete Companion Planting Chart
All 48 plants, alphabetically. Scroll the table sideways on a narrow screen, or jump to the by-category breakdown below if you would rather read it in smaller pieces.
| Plant | Grows well with | Keep apart from | Spacing | Sun | Water | Zones |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Asparagus | Basil, Marigold, Parsley, Tomato | Garlic, Onion, Potato | 18" apart, 48" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–8 |
| Basil | Asparagus, Marigold, Oregano, Parsley, Pepper, Tomato | Sage, Thyme | 12" apart, 18" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 4–10 |
| Bean (Bush) | Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Cilantro, Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Potato, Pumpkin, Radish, Rosemary, Spinach, Squash (Winter), Strawberry, Sweet Potato, Zucchini | Beet, Broccoli, Chives, Garlic, Kale, Leek, Marigold, Onion, Pepper, Sunflower | 4" apart, 18" rows9 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–10 |
| Beet | Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Garlic, Kale, Lettuce, Onion | Bean (Bush) | 4" apart, 12" rows9 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–10 |
| Borage | Cabbage, Squash (Winter), Strawberry, Tomato | None recorded | 18" apart, 18" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–11 |
| Broccoli | Beet, Celery, Dill, Garlic, Onion, Potato, Rosemary | Bean (Bush), Pepper, Strawberry, Tomato | 18" apart, 24" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–10 |
| Brussels Sprouts | Beet, Carrot, Celery, Dill, Onion | Pepper, Strawberry, Tomato | 24" apart, 30" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–9 |
| Cabbage | Beet, Borage, Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Garlic, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Potato, Rosemary, Sage, Spinach, Thyme | Marigold, Strawberry, Tomato | 18" apart, 24" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 1–9 |
| Cantaloupe | Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Sunflower | Potato | 36" apart, 72" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 4–11 |
| Carrot | Bean (Bush), Brussels Sprouts, Chives, Garlic, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsley, Pea, Pepper, Radish, Rosemary, Sage, Tomato | Celery, Dill | 2" apart, 12" rows16 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–10 |
| Cauliflower | Bean (Bush), Beet, Celery, Onion, Spinach | Pepper, Strawberry, Tomato | 18" apart, 24" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | High | 2–10 |
| Celery | Bean (Bush), Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, Leek, Onion, Spinach, Tomato | Carrot, Corn, Lettuce, Potato | 8" apart, 24" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | High | 2–10 |
| Chamomile | Cabbage, Cucumber, Onion | Mint | 8" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–9 |
| Chives | Carrot, Lettuce, Tomato | Bean (Bush), Pea | 6" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–9 |
| Cilantro | Bean (Bush), Lettuce, Pea, Spinach, Tomato | Dill, Thyme | 4" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Partial shade | Moderate | 2–11 |
| Corn | Bean (Bush), Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Pea, Potato, Pumpkin, Squash (Winter), Sunflower, Watermelon, Zucchini | Celery, Tomato | 12" apart, 30" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 4–10 |
| Cucumber | Bean (Bush), Chamomile, Corn, Dill, Kale, Lettuce, Marigold, Nasturtium, Pea, Radish, Sunflower, Zinnia | Mint, Potato, Rosemary, Sage | 12" apart, 48" rows2 per sq ft | Full sun | High | 4–11 |
| Dill | Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cucumber, Kale, Lettuce, Onion | Carrot, Cilantro, Tomato | 6" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–11 |
| Eggplant | Bean (Bush), Marigold, Pepper, Spinach, Thyme | None recorded | 24" apart, 36" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 5–11 |
| Garlic | Beet, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Lettuce, Pepper, Tomato, Turnip | Asparagus, Bean (Bush), Pea, Strawberry | 4" apart, 12" rows9 per sq ft | Full sun | Low | 3–8 |
| Kale | Beet, Celery, Cucumber, Dill, Onion, Potato | Bean (Bush), Strawberry, Tomato | 12" apart, 18" rows1 per sq ft | Partial shade | Moderate | 2–9 |
| Lavender | Oregano, Sage, Thyme | Mint | 18" apart, 24" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Low | 5–9 |
| Leek | Carrot, Celery, Onion | Bean (Bush), Pea | 6" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–9 |
| Lettuce | Beet, Carrot, Chives, Cilantro, Cucumber, Dill, Garlic, Onion, Radish, Strawberry, Sunflower | Celery, Parsley | 6" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Partial shade | Moderate | 2–11 |
| Marigold | Asparagus, Basil, Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Eggplant, Pepper, Potato, Pumpkin, Squash (Winter), Tomato, Watermelon, Zucchini | Bean (Bush), Cabbage | 8" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–11 |
| Mint | Cabbage, Pea, Tomato | Chamomile, Cucumber, Lavender, Parsley | 18" apart, 24" rows1 per sq ft | Partial shade | High | 3–11 |
| Nasturtium | Cabbage, Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Squash (Winter), Tomato, Watermelon, Zucchini | None recorded | 12" apart, 12" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Low | 2–11 |
| Onion | Beet, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Kale, Leek, Lettuce, Pepper, Strawberry, Tomato, Turnip | Asparagus, Bean (Bush), Pea, Sage | 4" apart, 12" rows9 per sq ft | Full sun | Low | 3–9 |
| Oregano | Basil, Lavender, Pepper, Squash (Winter), Sweet Potato, Tomato | None recorded | 12" apart, 18" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Low | 5–10 |
| Parsley | Asparagus, Basil, Carrot, Pepper, Tomato | Lettuce, Mint | 6" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Partial shade | Moderate | 4–9 |
| Pea | Carrot, Cilantro, Corn, Cucumber, Mint, Radish, Spinach, Turnip | Chives, Garlic, Leek, Onion, Potato | 3" apart, 18" rows8 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–9 |
| Pepper | Basil, Carrot, Eggplant, Garlic, Marigold, Onion, Oregano, Parsley, Spinach, Tomato, Zinnia | Bean (Bush), Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower | 18" apart, 24" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 4–11 |
| Potato | Bean (Bush), Broccoli, Cabbage, Corn, Kale, Marigold, Thyme | Asparagus, Cantaloupe, Celery, Cucumber, Pea, Pumpkin, Squash (Winter), Sunflower, Tomato, Turnip, Watermelon, Zucchini | 12" apart, 30" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–10 |
| Pumpkin | Bean (Bush), Corn, Marigold, Radish | Potato, Rosemary, Zucchini | 48" apart, 72" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–9 |
| Radish | Bean (Bush), Carrot, Cucumber, Lettuce, Pea, Pumpkin, Spinach, Squash (Winter), Watermelon, Zucchini | None recorded | 2" apart, 6" rows16 per sq ft | Partial shade | Moderate | 2–10 |
| Rosemary | Bean (Bush), Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Sage | Cucumber, Pumpkin | 24" apart, 36" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Low | 7–10 |
| Sage | Cabbage, Carrot, Lavender, Rosemary, Strawberry, Tomato | Basil, Cucumber, Onion | 24" apart, 30" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Low | 4–10 |
| Spinach | Bean (Bush), Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Cilantro, Eggplant, Pea, Pepper, Radish, Strawberry | None recorded | 4" apart, 12" rows9 per sq ft | Partial shade | Moderate | 2–9 |
| Squash (Winter) | Bean (Bush), Borage, Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Oregano, Radish, Sunflower, Zinnia | Potato, Sweet Potato | 24" apart, 72" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–10 |
| Strawberry | Bean (Bush), Borage, Lettuce, Onion, Sage, Spinach, Thyme | Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Garlic, Kale | 12" apart, 36" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–10 |
| Sunflower | Cantaloupe, Corn, Cucumber, Lettuce, Squash (Winter) | Bean (Bush), Potato | 24" apart, 30" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–11 |
| Sweet Potato | Bean (Bush), Oregano, Thyme | Squash (Winter) | 12" apart, 36" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 5–11 |
| Thyme | Cabbage, Eggplant, Lavender, Potato, Strawberry, Sweet Potato, Tomato | Basil, Cilantro | 12" apart, 18" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Low | 5–9 |
| Tomato | Asparagus, Basil, Borage, Carrot, Celery, Chives, Cilantro, Garlic, Marigold, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Oregano, Parsley, Pepper, Sage, Thyme, Zinnia | Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Corn, Dill, Kale, Potato | 24" apart, 36" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–11 |
| Turnip | Garlic, Onion, Pea | Potato | 4" apart, 12" rows9 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–9 |
| Watermelon | Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Radish | Potato | 72" apart, 96" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | High | 3–11 |
| Zinnia | Cucumber, Pepper, Squash (Winter), Tomato | None recorded | 6" apart, 12" rows4 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 2–11 |
| Zucchini | Bean (Bush), Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Radish | Potato, Pumpkin | 24" apart, 36" rows1 per sq ft | Full sun | Moderate | 3–10 |
Companion Planting by Crop
The same 48 plants again, split by type, with a short note on what each group is actually doing in your bed. If you are planning a single bed rather than a whole garden, this is usually the faster way in.
Vegetables (28)
Vegetables are where companion planting earns its keep, because they are the crops you grow in quantity and the ones most likely to be competing for the same light, water and root space. The pairings below lean heavily on three practical mechanisms: tall crops sheltering short ones, aromatic crops confusing the insects that hunt by smell, and fast crops harvested out of the way before slow crops need the room.
| Plant | Grows well with | Keep apart from | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Asparagus | Basil, Marigold, Parsley, Tomato | Garlic, Onion, Potato | Perennial vegetable - plant once, harvest for years. |
| Bean (Bush) | Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Cilantro, Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Potato, Pumpkin, Radish, Rosemary, Spinach, Squash (Winter), Strawberry, Sweet Potato, Zucchini | Beet, Broccoli, Chives, Garlic, Kale, Leek, Marigold, Onion, Pepper, Sunflower | Easy to grow and fixes nitrogen in the soil. |
| Beet | Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Garlic, Kale, Lettuce, Onion | Bean (Bush) | Dual-purpose vegetable with edible roots and greens. |
| Broccoli | Beet, Celery, Dill, Garlic, Onion, Potato, Rosemary | Bean (Bush), Pepper, Strawberry, Tomato | Cool-season crop with edible flower heads. |
| Brussels Sprouts | Beet, Carrot, Celery, Dill, Onion | Pepper, Strawberry, Tomato | Frost sweetens these miniature cabbages. |
| Cabbage | Beet, Borage, Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Garlic, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Potato, Rosemary, Sage, Spinach, Thyme | Marigold, Strawberry, Tomato | Versatile brassica for coleslaw, sauerkraut, and stir-fry. |
| Carrot | Bean (Bush), Brussels Sprouts, Chives, Garlic, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsley, Pea, Pepper, Radish, Rosemary, Sage, Tomato | Celery, Dill | Root vegetable that grows best in loose, sandy soil. |
| Cauliflower | Bean (Bush), Beet, Celery, Onion, Spinach | Pepper, Strawberry, Tomato | Delicate brassica that requires consistent moisture. |
| Celery | Bean (Bush), Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, Leek, Onion, Spinach, Tomato | Carrot, Corn, Lettuce, Potato | Challenging to grow but rewarding crunchy stalks. |
| Corn | Bean (Bush), Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Pea, Potato, Pumpkin, Squash (Winter), Sunflower, Watermelon, Zucchini | Celery, Tomato | Plant in blocks for proper pollination. |
| Cucumber | Bean (Bush), Chamomile, Corn, Dill, Kale, Lettuce, Marigold, Nasturtium, Pea, Radish, Sunflower, Zinnia | Mint, Potato, Rosemary, Sage | Refreshing vine vegetable perfect for salads and pickling. |
| Eggplant | Bean (Bush), Marigold, Pepper, Spinach, Thyme | None recorded | Heat-loving vegetable in the nightshade family. |
| Garlic | Beet, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Lettuce, Pepper, Tomato, Turnip | Asparagus, Bean (Bush), Pea, Strawberry | Plant in fall for summer harvest. Natural pest repellent. |
| Kale | Beet, Celery, Cucumber, Dill, Onion, Potato | Bean (Bush), Strawberry, Tomato | Hardy leafy green that becomes sweeter after frost. |
| Leek | Carrot, Celery, Onion | Bean (Bush), Pea | Mild onion flavor, great for soups. |
| Lettuce | Beet, Carrot, Chives, Cilantro, Cucumber, Dill, Garlic, Onion, Radish, Strawberry, Sunflower | Celery, Parsley | Fast-growing leafy green that prefers cool weather. |
| Onion | Beet, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Chamomile, Dill, Kale, Leek, Lettuce, Pepper, Strawberry, Tomato, Turnip | Asparagus, Bean (Bush), Pea, Sage | Essential kitchen staple that deters many pests. |
| Pea | Carrot, Cilantro, Corn, Cucumber, Mint, Radish, Spinach, Turnip | Chives, Garlic, Leek, Onion, Potato | Cool-season crop that fixes nitrogen in soil. |
| Pepper | Basil, Carrot, Eggplant, Garlic, Marigold, Onion, Oregano, Parsley, Spinach, Tomato, Zinnia | Bean (Bush), Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower | Sweet or hot peppers that thrive in warm weather. |
| Potato | Bean (Bush), Broccoli, Cabbage, Corn, Kale, Marigold, Thyme | Asparagus, Cantaloupe, Celery, Cucumber, Pea, Pumpkin, Squash (Winter), Sunflower, Tomato, Turnip, Watermelon, Zucchini | Versatile tuber vegetable grown from seed potatoes. |
| Pumpkin | Bean (Bush), Corn, Marigold, Radish | Potato, Rosemary, Zucchini | Large vine plant - needs lots of space. |
| Radish | Bean (Bush), Carrot, Cucumber, Lettuce, Pea, Pumpkin, Spinach, Squash (Winter), Watermelon, Zucchini | None recorded | Fast-growing root vegetable ready in about a month. |
| Spinach | Bean (Bush), Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Cilantro, Eggplant, Pea, Pepper, Radish, Strawberry | None recorded | Nutritious leafy green that thrives in cool weather. |
| Squash (Winter) | Bean (Bush), Borage, Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Oregano, Radish, Sunflower, Zinnia | Potato, Sweet Potato | Long-storing squash varieties like butternut and acorn. |
| Sweet Potato | Bean (Bush), Oregano, Thyme | Squash (Winter) | Heat-loving vine grown from slips. |
| Tomato | Asparagus, Basil, Borage, Carrot, Celery, Chives, Cilantro, Garlic, Marigold, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Oregano, Parsley, Pepper, Sage, Thyme, Zinnia | Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Corn, Dill, Kale, Potato | A popular garden vegetable available in many varieties from cherry to beefsteak. |
| Turnip | Garlic, Onion, Pea | Potato | Fast-growing root vegetable with edible greens. |
| Zucchini | Bean (Bush), Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Radish | Potato, Pumpkin | Prolific summer squash that produces abundantly. |
Herbs (12)
Herbs show up in more companion lists than any other group relative to how much space they take, and the reason is mostly chemistry: strongly scented foliage makes it harder for a pest to locate its host plant by smell. Herbs are also small, shallow-rooted and tolerant of being tucked into gaps, which makes them the easiest companions to actually fit into a plan you have already drawn.
| Plant | Grows well with | Keep apart from | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basil | Asparagus, Marigold, Oregano, Parsley, Pepper, Tomato | Sage, Thyme | Aromatic herb essential for Italian cuisine. |
| Chamomile | Cabbage, Cucumber, Onion | Mint | Calming tea herb with daisy-like flowers. |
| Chives | Carrot, Lettuce, Tomato | Bean (Bush), Pea | Mild onion flavor with pretty purple flowers. |
| Cilantro | Bean (Bush), Lettuce, Pea, Spinach, Tomato | Dill, Thyme | Fast-bolting herb - plant successively. |
| Dill | Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cucumber, Kale, Lettuce, Onion | Carrot, Cilantro, Tomato | Self-seeding herb great for pickles. |
| Lavender | Oregano, Sage, Thyme | Mint | Fragrant perennial that attracts pollinators. |
| Mint | Cabbage, Pea, Tomato | Chamomile, Cucumber, Lavender, Parsley | Invasive - best grown in containers. |
| Oregano | Basil, Lavender, Pepper, Squash (Winter), Sweet Potato, Tomato | None recorded | Mediterranean herb that spreads easily. |
| Parsley | Asparagus, Basil, Carrot, Pepper, Tomato | Lettuce, Mint | Biennial herb with flat or curly leaves. |
| Rosemary | Bean (Bush), Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Sage | Cucumber, Pumpkin | Woody perennial herb with pine-like fragrance. |
| Sage | Cabbage, Carrot, Lavender, Rosemary, Strawberry, Tomato | Basil, Cucumber, Onion | Woody perennial with soft gray-green leaves. |
| Thyme | Cabbage, Eggplant, Lavender, Potato, Strawberry, Sweet Potato, Tomato | Basil, Cilantro | Low-growing perennial with tiny fragrant leaves. |
Flowers (5)
Flowers do two jobs in a vegetable bed. Some are grown to pull pests away from a crop or to interfere with soil-dwelling pests, and some are grown to bring in the pollinators and predatory insects that keep the bed working on your behalf. A row of flowers at the end of a bed is rarely wasted space, and they are the one group that almost never conflicts with anything.
| Plant | Grows well with | Keep apart from | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Borage | Cabbage, Squash (Winter), Strawberry, Tomato | None recorded | Edible blue flowers that attract pollinators. |
| Marigold | Asparagus, Basil, Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Eggplant, Pepper, Potato, Pumpkin, Squash (Winter), Tomato, Watermelon, Zucchini | Bean (Bush), Cabbage | Natural pest repellent - plant throughout the garden. |
| Nasturtium | Cabbage, Cantaloupe, Cucumber, Squash (Winter), Tomato, Watermelon, Zucchini | None recorded | Edible flowers that trap aphids away from crops. |
| Sunflower | Cantaloupe, Corn, Cucumber, Lettuce, Squash (Winter) | Bean (Bush), Potato | Attracts pollinators and provides shade. |
| Zinnia | Cucumber, Pepper, Squash (Winter), Tomato | None recorded | Colorful cut flowers that attract butterflies. |
Fruit (3)
The fruiting crops in this chart are the ones that share a bed with vegetables rather than needing their own permanent patch. They are mostly sprawlers and heavy feeders, so their companion relationships are driven as much by spacing and shade as by pest behaviour, and their keep-apart list is short but worth respecting.
| Plant | Grows well with | Keep apart from | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cantaloupe | Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Sunflower | Potato | Sweet melon that needs warm soil to thrive. |
| Strawberry | Bean (Bush), Borage, Lettuce, Onion, Sage, Spinach, Thyme | Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Garlic, Kale | Perennial berry that produces for years. |
| Watermelon | Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Radish | Potato | Space-hungry vine that loves heat. |
Plants to Keep Apart
This is the part of a companion planting chart worth acting on first, because the cost of following it is zero. Choosing to put one row three feet further along costs you nothing, while ignoring a known conflict can cost you a crop. Below are all 64 pairings the dataset flags, listed once each rather than twice.
It helps to know why a pairing is on the list, because the reasons are not interchangeable. Broadly there are four, and they call for different responses.
Competition. The commonest and least mysterious reason. Two heavy feeders, two sprawlers, or a tall plant and a short one that needed the light. The fix is distance, and the spacing columns above tell you how much.
Shared pests and disease. Plants in the same family tend to host the same problems, so putting them shoulder to shoulder gives a blight or a beetle an easy path from one to the next. This is also the reason companion planting and crop rotation are usually discussed together: rotation keeps the problem from building up in the soil, spacing keeps it from spreading across the bed.
Chemical interference. Some plants release compounds that suppress germination or growth nearby. This is a real phenomenon, but it is also the category most prone to exaggeration in gardening lore, so we treat specific claims cautiously.
Timing and bolting. A pairing can fail purely because one plant triggers the other to run to seed, or because harvesting one means trampling the other. Nothing is wrong with either plant; the combination is just inconvenient.
7 of the 48 plants here have no conflict recorded at all. Read that as “nothing known” rather than “proven compatible with everything”.
| Plant | Keep apart from |
|---|---|
| Basil | Sage |
| Basil | Thyme |
| Bean (Bush) | Beet |
| Bean (Bush) | Chives |
| Bean (Bush) | Leek |
| Bean (Bush) | Marigold |
| Bean (Bush) | Sunflower |
| Broccoli | Bean (Bush) |
| Broccoli | Strawberry |
| Brussels Sprouts | Strawberry |
| Cabbage | Marigold |
| Cabbage | Strawberry |
| Carrot | Celery |
| Carrot | Dill |
| Cauliflower | Strawberry |
| Celery | Corn |
| Cilantro | Dill |
| Cilantro | Thyme |
| Cucumber | Mint |
| Cucumber | Potato |
| Cucumber | Rosemary |
| Cucumber | Sage |
| Garlic | Asparagus |
| Garlic | Bean (Bush) |
| Garlic | Pea |
| Garlic | Strawberry |
| Kale | Bean (Bush) |
| Kale | Strawberry |
| Lettuce | Celery |
| Lettuce | Parsley |
| Mint | Chamomile |
| Mint | Lavender |
| Onion | Asparagus |
| Onion | Bean (Bush) |
| Onion | Pea |
| Onion | Sage |
| Parsley | Mint |
| Pea | Chives |
| Pea | Leek |
| Pea | Potato |
| Pepper | Bean (Bush) |
| Pepper | Broccoli |
| Pepper | Brussels Sprouts |
| Pepper | Cauliflower |
| Potato | Asparagus |
| Potato | Cantaloupe |
| Potato | Celery |
| Potato | Pumpkin |
| Potato | Squash (Winter) |
| Potato | Sunflower |
| Potato | Turnip |
| Potato | Watermelon |
| Pumpkin | Rosemary |
| Squash (Winter) | Sweet Potato |
| Tomato | Broccoli |
| Tomato | Brussels Sprouts |
| Tomato | Cabbage |
| Tomato | Cauliflower |
| Tomato | Corn |
| Tomato | Dill |
| Tomato | Kale |
| Tomato | Potato |
| Zucchini | Potato |
| Zucchini | Pumpkin |
Where This Data Comes From
Companion planting charts rarely say where their pairings came from, which makes them hard to judge. Here is ours, including the parts that are less tidy than we would like.
What the pairings are. The companion and keep-apart relationships are a compilation of long-standing garden practice and the kind of guidance that circulates through extension-service leaflets, seed catalogues and regional growing guides. They are the consensus of common practice. They are not the output of a trial programme, and we do not claim any individual pairing has been tested under controlled conditions. We also do not grade pairings by strength of evidence, because we do not hold evidence data for them, and inventing a star rating would tell you more about our confidence than about the plants.
This matters because the two halves of a companion chart are not equally well supported. The broad mechanisms are on reasonably firm ground: mixed plantings are harder for specialist pests to exploit than monocultures, flowering plants attract pollinators and predatory insects, and tall plants shade shorter ones. Highly specific pairwise claims are much weaker, and the claim that one plant improves another's flavour is close to folklore. We have kept the traditional pairings because they are a useful starting point, and we would rather say plainly that much of it is untested than imply more rigour than exists.
Spacing, sun, water and zones. These come from standard growing recommendations for each crop and are the figures our planner uses to lay out beds. They are the most dependable numbers on this page. Spacing in particular varies by variety, so treat the figures as a sound default rather than a rule, and follow your seed packet when it disagrees.
Pairings are mutual, by choice. Our underlying dataset records relationships per plant, and some were entered in one direction only, so pepper listed tomato as a companion without tomato listing pepper. We treat every relationship as applying both ways: if either plant names the other, the pairing appears in both rows. We think a one-way entry is far more likely to be an incomplete record than a deliberate claim that a benefit flows one way only, and a chart that contradicts itself depending on which row you happen to read is worse than useless. Symmetrizing turns 235 directional companion entries and 92 directional keep-apart entries into 174 and 64 mutual pairings respectively. If you have seen a chart that shows a pairing one way only, that is the difference.
What we left out. Some traditional pairings involve crops this site does not cover, including a number of orchard fruits, grains, cover crops and a few less common vegetables and herbs. Those references have been removed from the tables rather than shown as blanks, which is why you may find a pairing elsewhere that does not appear here. We would rather the chart be complete about 48 plants than gesture at plants we hold no growing data for. Nothing in the current dataset is listed as both a companion and a conflict, so the two relationship columns never contradict each other.
Corrections welcome. If a pairing here contradicts your own experience or your regional extension guidance, the feedback button in the corner of the page reaches us. Companion planting is strongly regional, and a chart like this is a starting point for your garden, not a verdict on it.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Does companion planting actually work?
Parts of it do, and parts of it are traditional practice that has never been tested rigorously. The mechanisms with the clearest grounding are the physical and ecological ones: a tall crop really does shade a heat-sensitive one, a flowering border really does bring in predatory insects, and interplanting really does make it harder for a specialist pest to find a whole row of its favourite host. The weakest claims are the very specific ones, the idea that one named plant improves another's flavour, for example, which is repeated constantly and supported by very little.
Our honest position is that this chart is a compilation of common garden practice, not a summary of controlled trials, and we do not label individual pairings as proven. Treat the companion column as a sensible default when you have a free choice about what to put where, and treat sun, water and spacing as the constraints you must not break.
- How close do companion plants need to be?
Close enough to share the same patch of bed, which in practice means the same bed or an adjacent row rather than the same planting hole. The pest-confusion and predator-attraction effects work at the scale of a bed, so a border of flowers along one edge counts. What does not work is crowding two plants together so tightly that they compete, at which point you lose more to competition than you gain from the pairing.
Use the spacing columns as the floor. If the chart says a plant wants 24 inches in the row, a companion goes beside that 24 inches, not inside it.
- What happens if I plant two antagonists next to each other?
Usually nothing dramatic. Most of the keep-apart pairings in this chart describe a tendency rather than a disaster: slower growth, a crop that bolts early, a shared disease that spreads more easily because two susceptible plants are touching, or one plant simply out-competing the other for light and water. You will still get a harvest. The reason to respect the list is that you usually have a free choice about where things go, so there is no reason to accept a known penalty when moving a row by three feet costs you nothing.
- Why do some plants have no entry in the keep-apart column?
Because nothing in the dataset records a conflict for them. 41 of the 48 plants here have at least one recorded conflict; the remaining 7 show “None recorded”. That is a statement about the data, not a guarantee of universal compatibility. Flowers and several herbs are genuinely easygoing neighbours, but an empty cell should be read as “no known problem” rather than “proven safe with everything”.
- Can I use this chart for containers and raised beds?
Yes, with one adjustment: in a container, competition dominates everything else. Two plants in the same pot share a fixed volume of soil and water, so a pairing that works beautifully in open ground can fail in a 12-inch pot simply because the roots run out of room. In containers, prefer pairings where one plant is small and shallow-rooted, and use the plants-per-square-foot column rather than the in-row figure.
Raised beds behave much more like open ground, so the chart applies directly. The one thing to watch is that raised beds drain faster, so pairing a high-water crop with a low-water one in the same bed is more awkward than it looks on paper.
- Do the pairings change depending on my hardiness zone?
The relationships themselves do not, but which plants you can grow together at the same time does. Each row lists the USDA zone range for that plant, and two plants are only companions in practice if their seasons actually overlap where you garden. A cool-season crop and a heat-loving crop can be listed as companions and still never share the bed in a short season, because one is finished before the other is planted out. Check the zone column, then check the timing.
- What is the difference between companion planting and crop rotation?
Companion planting is about space, crop rotation is about time. Companion planting asks what should grow next to what in a single season. Rotation asks what should follow what in the same ground across several seasons, mainly to avoid building up soil-borne disease and depleting the same nutrients repeatedly. They are complementary, and rotation is the more reliably beneficial of the two. A good plan uses this chart to arrange a season and a rotation plan to decide what goes in that bed next year.
- How do I use this chart to plan a whole bed?
Start from the crops you actually want to eat, not from the chart. Pick your three or four main crops, look up each one, and note its spacing, sun and water needs first. Group the ones with matching sun and water into the same bed. Then, and only then, use the companion column to decide the order of rows within that bed and to pick the herbs and flowers that fill the gaps.
If you would rather not do that on paper, our free garden planner uses this same dataset: you drag plants onto a bed and it flags good and bad neighbours as you go.
Pairing is only half of it — two crops that get along still need to go in the ground at the right time. Our planting calendar by zone gives each of these plants its sow, transplant and harvest window for your USDA zone, so you can see which companions actually share a season.